It’s successfully finished, but the 3D printing gods frown upon your ugly print. Here are the 3D printing problems which could be the cause.
First Layer is Messy:
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
The first layers of a print can often prove problematic. It could be that the print simply does not stick (which we covered with a different 3D printing troubleshooting tip, up top), or you’re finding unwanted lines that cause the bottom shell to have an unexpected look. Additionally, it’s entirely possible for any fine detail on the bottom of your print to congeal into a blur with little semblance of any surface design.
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
These 3D printing problems are typical signs that the print bed hasn’t been leveled properly. If the nozzle is too far away from the bed, the bottom surface often shows unwanted lines, and/or the first layer does not stick. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result.
Where you find detail is becoming undefined and blurry, the chances are your print bed temperature is a little too high.
Do the Below:
LEVEL THE PRINT BED: Every printer has a different process for print platform leveling. The latest Prusa models feature an extremely reliable auto leveling system, while others such as the Ultimaker have a handy step-by-step approach that guide you through the adjustment process.
LOWER BED TEMPERATURE: Try knocking the bed temperature down by 5 degree increments, until you hit that sweet spot of adhesion, without loss of detail.
First Layer is Messy Checklist:
Level the print platform
Lower bed temperature
First Layer is Messy:
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
The first layers of a print can often prove problematic. It could be that the print simply does not stick (which we covered with a different 3D printing troubleshooting tip, up top), or you’re finding unwanted lines that cause the bottom shell to have an unexpected look. Additionally, it’s entirely possible for any fine detail on the bottom of your print to congeal into a blur with little semblance of any surface design.
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
These 3D printing problems are typical signs that the print bed hasn’t been leveled properly. If the nozzle is too far away from the bed, the bottom surface often shows unwanted lines, and/or the first layer does not stick. If the nozzle is too close, blobs may be the result.
Where you find detail is becoming undefined and blurry, the chances are your print bed temperature is a little too high.
Do the Below:
LEVEL THE PRINT BED: Every printer has a different process for print platform leveling. The latest Prusa models feature an extremely reliable auto leveling system, while others such as the Ultimaker have a handy step-by-step approach that guide you through the adjustment process.
LOWER BED TEMPERATURE: Try knocking the bed temperature down by 5 degree increments, until you hit that sweet spot of adhesion, without loss of detail.
First Layer is Messy Checklist:
Level the print platform
Lower bed temperature
Print Bows Out at Bottom (Elephant's Foot):
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
The base of the model is slightly bulging outwards, an effect otherwise known as “elephant foot”.
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
This ungainly print defect can be caused by the weight of the rest of the model pressing down on the lower before they have properly cooled back into a solid – this is particularly an issue when your printer has a heated bed.
Do the Below:
BALANCE BED TEMP & COOLING: To stop elephant foot appearing in your 3D prints the base layers of the model need to be cooled sufficiently so that they can support the structure above. Apply too much cooling however, and you risk the base layers warping. Getting the balance right can be tricky, start by lowering the temperature of the print platform by intervals of 5 degrees, (to within +/- 20 degrees of the recommended temperature). If your Bottom / Top Thickness is set to 0.6mm then start the fan at a slightly lower height.
LEVEL PRINT BED: More often than not the majority of print issues can be traced back to the level of the print platform. Each printer has a slightly different technique for print platform leveling. Start by calibrating yours according to your printer manufacturer’s recommended procedure.
Try printing a calibration cube and watch how the printer lays the filament on the bed. From printing the cube you should easily be able to see if your bed is level from how evenly (or not) your layers are on the bed.
Similarly, you will be able to see if the nozzle is too close to the print platform and scraping through the molten filament, or too high and causing the filament to build up and blob.
RAISE THE NOZZLE: Just raising the height of the nozzle slightly can often help, but be careful too high and it won’t stick to the platform.
CHAMFER THE BASE: Another option is to chamfer the base of your model. Of course, this is only possible if you have either designed the model yourself or you have access to the original file. Start with a 5mm and 45º chamfer, but experiment a little to get the best result.
Elephant’s Foot Checklist:
Balance print platform temperature and fan speed
Level the print platform
Check the nozzle height
Chamfer the model base
Print Edges are Bending (Warping):
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
At the base of the model, the print bends upwards until it’s no longer level with the print platform. This can also result in horizontal cracks in upper parts and cause your print to come unstuck from the print bed.
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
Warping is common as it’s caused by a natural characteristic of the plastic. As the ABS or PLA filament cools it starts to contract very slightly; the problem of warping arises if the plastic is cooled too quickly.
Do the Below:
USE A HEATED PRINT PLATFORM: The easiest solution is to use a heated print platform and to set the temperature to a point just below the plastics melting point. This is called the “glass transition temperature”. If you get that temperature right then the first layer will stay flat on the print platform. The print platform temperature is often set by the slicer software. You’ll normally find the recommended temperature for your filament printed on the side of the packaging or on the spool.
APPLY AN ADHESIVE TO THE PRINT BED: If you still find your print lifting at the edges then apply a tiny amount of stick glue evenly on the bed to increase adhesion.
TRY A DIFFERENT PLATFORM TYPE: Change your print bed to one that offers better adhesion. Manufacturers such as Prusa use a PEI (Polyetherimide) print surface that offers excellent adhesion without glue. XYZPrinting supply a textured tape in the box with some of their printers, basically a large sheet of masking tape, and again adding this works excellently, although only with nonheated print platforms. Zortrax 3D printers have a perforated print bed, models weld themselves to this surface eliminating the issue completely.
LEVEL THE PRINT PLATFORM: Print platform calibration can be another cause, run through the calibration process to check that the bed is level and nozzle height is correct.
INCREASE CONTACT: Increasing the contact between the model and bed is an easy fix and most print software has the option to add rafts or platforms.
ADJUST ADVANCED TEMPERATURE SETTINGS: If all else fails then you’ll need to take a look at your advanced print settings both on your printer and in your print software. Try increasing the print bed temperature by increments of 5 degrees.
In the slicer software take a look at the fan cooling, this is usually set so the cooling fans switch to full power at a height of around 0.5mm, try extending this to 0.75 to give the base layers a little more time to cool naturally.
Even if your printer has a heated print platform, it’s always recommended that you use glue and regularly calibrate the bed level.
Warping Checklist:
Use a heated print platform
Add an adhesive to the print platform
Swap from glass to an adhesive print bed
Calibrate print bed
Add platforms or rafts
Adjust advance the temperature and fan settings
Infill Looks Messy and Incomplete:
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
The internal structure of your print is missing or broken.
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
There are a number of reasons for the misprinting of the internal structure. The most common is incorrect settings within the slicing software, but it can also be due to a slightly blocked nozzle.
Do the Below:
CHECK THE FILL DENSITY: In your slicing software check the infill density. A value of around 20% is normal; any less than this and you’re likely to have issues. For larger prints you may want to increase this to ensure that the model has enough support.
DECREASE INFILL SPEED: Most slicing software enables you to change the internal structure. You can have a grid pattern, or triangle, honeycomb, and more. Try selecting a different option.
CHANGE THE INFILL PATTERN: Change your print bed to one that offers better adhesion. Manufacturers such as Prusa use a PEI (Polyetherimide) print surface that offers excellent adhesion without glue. XYZPrinting supply a textured tape in the box with some of their printers, basically a large sheet of masking tape, and again adding this works excellently, although only with nonheated print platforms. Zortrax 3D printers have a perforated print bed, models weld themselves to this surface eliminating the issue completely.
CHECK YOUR NOZZLE: It might be that there is a slight blockage in the nozzle. While the blockage doesn’t effect the printing of the thicker exterior walls, because there is less flow for the internal structure the filament is getting caught.
Broken Infill Checklist:
Check and adjust the fill density
Decrease the infill speed
Try a different infill pattern
Check your nozzle for blockages
Gaps Between Infill and Outer Wall:
What’s the 3D Printing Problem?
When you look at the top or bottom of the print, you can see a slight gap between the infill and the outer perimeter walls.
What’s Causing this 3D Printing Problem?
Gaps between the perimeter and top layers used to be a common problem, but as printer accuracy has improved and the support for different materials extends, it’s now less of an issue than it was.
However the new wave of advanced materials are far less forgiving than the likes of PLA and ABS, and we’re starting to see a slight resurgence of the problem.
Gaps are caused by the filament used for the infill and outer walls not quite meeting and bonding. Handily, it’s one of the easiest things on this list to fix.
The most obvious cause of the problem is that the infill overlap is not set, or it’s set to zero. This means that the slicing software is actually telling the printer not to allow the two parts of the print to meet.
Another issue could be the order in which you have set the infill and outer walls to be printed. If you’re printing the perimeter first, then there is generally little or no overlap which can again cause the problem.
Do the Below:
CHECK THE INFILL OVERLAP: This is by far the most common issue and is really easy to resolve. In your slicing software locate the ‘Infill Overlap’ option and increase the value.
In Cura this is set to 15% by default. Raise it to 30%.
In Simplify3D you’ll find the option in ‘Edit Process Settings > Infill > Outline Overlap’. Again increase the value. This setting is directly linked to the extrusion width, so the % value will be a % of whatever you’re extrusion width is. When adjusting this setting always keep it below 50% or you’ll start to see the effects of the overlap in the outer perimeters of your print.
PRINT INFILL BEFORE THE PERIMETER SHELL: If you’re printing with a relatively thin outer wall the structure of the infill can show through. If this happens then you can switch the order by which the printer lays down the infill and perimeter layers. For example, in Cura check to see if you have ‘Infill prints after perimeters’ ticked.
INCREASE HOT END TEMPERATURE: Some of the latest advanced materials such as XT-CF20 are a little less forgiving when it comes to spreading due to the carbon fibers that make up part of their structure. When printing with these materials you may find that a slight 5-10º increase in hot end temperature makes all the difference.
LOWER PRINT SPEED: Okay, so you may be in a rush to get the printout, but printing at higher speeds can cause all sorts of issues if the printer isn’t perfectly calibrated. If you need to print quickly you can still avoid gaps by decreasing the speed of the top layer.
Gaps Between Infill and Outer Wall Checklist:
Check the infill overlap
Printing infill before the perimeter
Increase hot end temperature
Lower print speed